California Big Wave Surfing - Riding 70ft Waves in the Golden State

California Big Wave Surfing  - Riding 70ft Waves in the Golden State
By [http://ezinearticles.com/?expert=Chris_Warner]Chris Warner

California is home to a multitude of surf spots, among them three spots know to big wave surfers around the world. All three produce dangerous waves breaking over 20 feet in height. The big wave season usually runs from roughly October through March, although Dec through Feb is the peak. These spots all break in deep water on huge swells with bottom contours that rise steeply so that all the energy is saved until the wave breaks and peels.

Mavericks

The most well know of the California big wave spots. This cold water wave breaks a half mile off Pillar Point in Half Moon Bay, 25 miles south of San Francisco. It is mostly a right breaking wave over 20 foot, although lefts can be surfed under 20 feet.  It was surfed virtually alone be Jeff Clark from 1975 until 1990 when it finally became known to the rest of the world. Now it is home to the annual Mavericks Surf Contest. Supposedly there were 100ft waves seen year during a huge swell a few hears ago, but nobody surfed them. Documented waves have been surfed here almost 70ft high. The inside is a nasty mess of boulders called "The Boneyard". Hawaiian big wave surfer Mark Foo died here in 1994.

Cortes Bank

This spot is created by  a chain of underwater mountains in the Pacific Ocean. It is about 100 miles west of San Diego and about 40 miles south-west of San Clemente Island. It's shallowest point is only 6ft beneath the surface.  These peaks are what cause the waves to break on huge swells.  Although first surfed in 1990, really big waves weren't surfed until 2001 as part of "Project Nepture". It now attracts a group of surfers every year, despite being only accessible by the long boat ride. Biggest documented waves surfed here are about 70ft, although it is theorized that this spot could produce rideable 100ft waves.

Ghost Trees

This big wave surfing location is off the 18th hole of the Pebble Beach Golf Course. This is a very scenic location on 17 mile drive between Monterey and Carmel. The deep water of the Carmel Canyon just offshore refracts long period west swells. This creates waves 4-5 times larger than the surrounding area. Nasty rocks on the inside.  It only breaks when gigantic and only about a half dozen times a year. Big wave surfer Peter Davi died surfing Ghost Trees in 2007. Personal watercraft used to tow surfers into huge waves were banned recently, making this mostly tow-in only spot "illegal" on the biggest days when  such craft be necessary.

Big Wave surfing is extremely dangerous and the vast majority of surfers in California never surf these spots. They are for dedicated, fit surfers willing to take serious risks for that ultimate rush. For the rest of us this is a spectator sport. These three spots have put the Golden State on the big wave map. Your best chance to see any of these would probably be at Mavericks. Large surf forecast services like Surfline can tell you when the these big waves combine with the right wind conditions for it to draw the big wave riders. You will want to bring your binoculars as the waves break very far out. Ghost Trees does not break as often but can also be seen from land. Obviously Cortes Bank can only be seen from a boat so a television or computer is as close as most of us will get. There may be more big wave spots waiting to be discovered in the more remote areas of Northern California.

Chris lives and surfs in the San Francisco Bay Area and runs [http://www.surfingcal.com]California Surfing, where you can read more about [http://www.surfingcal.com/big-wave-surfing.html]big wave surfing.

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